After a thrilling late-night sprint from Como to Lenno, for the first time since arriving I am able to not smell. This isn't to say that I can't smell things but rather that i cannot be smelled. And this is to say that I am lounging about in a small campground that is scrunched between a tall mountain and a large lake (the German name of which is see, as in sea. Actually, my dictionary says that's German for lake, but I'm not convinced) and which has showers. Free with cold water, 1 euro for hot. I paid the euro.
I spent the flight caught between the window and Jaime, a large, friendly man whose arms and legs and head tended to splay out from his core like a distressed crab. No doubt out of concern for the safety of the stewards, Jaime biased the direction of his splaying toward me, particularly his feet. When Jaime had to get to the bathroom, his search for his shoes led not to beneath his seat but to mine. Though my constitution suggested otherwise, I stayed put for the duration of the flight. The thought of discomfiting Jaime, and therefore our whole side of the plane, was enough to keep me planted. I was well-entertained nonetheless -- four movies, a short documentary and a Lady GaGa video. Once de-planed, I rode until darkness -- a little past, but don't tell Ma -- and found a comfy spot in the woods. 14 hours and 7 mosquito bites later, I got up and haltingly made my way to Como. Haltingly because I am taking countruh roads, the signage for which is both spotty and randomly placed. My Italian has grown leaps and bounds since I discovered that combining French, Spanish and a stereotypical Brooklyn-Italian accent was completely ineffective, but I've yet to learn to say "Why the fuck is the street sign for Via Giovanno the goddamned Twenty-Third [of which there are many] covered In ivy on the 3rd story of the building on the other side of the street?" Working on it.
I will rest here for a day, enjoying my baby-smooth skin, then head to the mountains. I think. I'm sort of fancy-free until the Giro hits the Dolomites 2014-05-27, so I may change my mind. It's a difficult old life.
Wi-fi has been spotty, as has been my battery performance, so I'll post when I can. I hope the heat isn't too horrifying. It's a gorgeous 21* with a mix of puffy clouds, belvederes of the Dolomites along a corniche and happy sun where I am. Just to rub it in.
